Enroute, fisherman Greg worked very hard (as you can see) to procure dinner for us.Below is the bay in Sapzuro. It was quite a rolly anchorage, so we put out our "flopper stopper". We were told, by others who had been there before, to talk to Johnny, a panga driver, about getting a ride to Caprigana (a small town 15 minutes down the coast). We needed to go there as that is where the immigration office is, but there is no anchorage in this town. However when we trying to anchor in Sapzuro, a small blue panga came out right away and buzzed us all during our anchoring process...quite annoying really. He obviously wanted to offer some sort of service, but he bumped us a couple of times as he got too close. Long story longer, Ralph decided to go with this guy since he thought one panga was the same as all the others. More later about this assumption!
We had scheduled to leave for the immigration office the next morning. Overnight, and next morning we had the rainstorm from hell. It was still pouring when 10am came (our scheduled departure time). We decided to postpone the trip till the next day. The bay, the usual green sea colour to begin with, gradually turned a muddy brown from the run-off.
We just watched the brown progress through the bay, along with branches, logs, etc. Next morning, he came to pick us up along with 2 or 3 other fellows off different boats. Although we have no photos of this, this was not a fun trip. We headed out to open ocean and around the corner. The swells, from the storm, and wind wave were both pretty high. I've seen panga fishermen out in that and thought they were nuts...yet here I was!! What was I thinking...I'll tell you what I was thinking...I was wondering what the trip back would be like since the wind is always higher in the afternoon (and we were due to return at 4). We arrived safe and sound, did our check-in/out, and went to some hole in the wall cafe for a not so sumptuous lunch.
This was the view from the cafe.
This dog kept climbing to the top of the sandpile, after "slip sliding away". I guess it was a cool spot for him as it was a very hot and humid day.
We took a look in some of the non-stores for a few essentials. Greg was getting hot, tired, and bored.
We happened upon the local meat market. As we were standing in the street, along came this open cart, lined with black plastic. The cargo was completely uncovered and God only knows how far they had come already.
At the palapa, they began unloading their cargo, onto the tables inside or hanging from hooks. We couldn't believe it was meat...looked like beef. All the dogs in the neighbourhood showed up, along with the village dwellers.
There is a strong military presence in this town, as I gather there is in all of Colombia. It would be terribly hot in those uniforms.
Greg decided to hike back, over the hill, to Sapzuro. We waited for the panga ride.
Here I am looking out at the waves, contemplating my fate and wondering if I should have walked. The trouble is, my feet hadn't yet healed from the last walk...so it wasn't really an option. Our panga driver was late, and who should arrive but the Johnny we were supposed to talk to in the first place...his panga was 3 times the size of the one we'd used...and he charged the same $$!! !*!!$%%$%%^&&**** So much for the assumption that one panga is the same as all the others!!! I contemplated hopping aboard (since he offered us a ride) when our panga driver came over the horizon. Against my better judgement, we went with the original guy. It was the ride from hell! The waves were so big we couldn't see the horizon. I was scared out of my wits!! The life jackets were old, wet, and salty...probably wouldn't have kept me afloat anyway! So, I just gripped one in case we went over. I'm sure I will die if we go over and, while I'm contemplating this, Ralph looks back and sees that our driver is FISHING!!! Then, to top it off he catches a plastic bag, stops the motor amidst these seas, and takes it off the hook!!!!! I am completely devoid of Spanish (because of all the fear) so can't say a word. Ralph laughs, and says, "Let's go!" to him, and off we go. We did arrive, yet again, safe and sound but soaked!! On the upside, we didn't get any ticks on our trip back, Greg got two new ones!
In one of the anchorages enroute, these girls and a fellow came out to collect their $10 anchoring fee. These charges really tick me off (especially since we are so short of money). I was not in a good mood when Ralph invited them aboard.
They wanted their photo taken, but then wanted the hard copy and said they'd come back tomorrow. Ralph had trouble explaining that they could view it in the camera, but we couldn't print it. Their Spanish was somewhat limited. They all speak their native Kuna, and only learn Spanish, in school, up to the mandatory attendance to grade 3, unless they elect to continue on. I'm guessing few go to school past that as there aren't schools on ever island.
Again, in one of the island we had another huge storm. This is Ralph's cue to get out, wash the deck, open the water intake and collect water. Our watermaker had been giving us trouble, so it seemed like a good idea. Since then, Ralph has managed to repair the problem, so we can make water again.
This water is being collected in a matter of seconds, off the side of the boat. We do laundry, in buckets, in the cockpit, during these downpours too. It's much cleaner water than we've used from the rivers and wells in Kuna Yala.
Something is lost in the photo, but I'm trying to show the rainfall.
Greg gets involved...washing this and than and a shower all at once!!
Lots of wind at the same time. You can see the rain and wind waves on the water. Keep in mind, this is a flat, calm anchorage at other times.
The happy water collectors!
Greg has decided to not cut his hair for the whole time he's with us...it's getting pretty long and unruly...is this some form of parent torture...we're the ones who have to look at him! Actually, it doesn't look so bad and is getting quite blonde! He'll be sorry when he cuts it all off...gone will be his surfer look.
Loved this balancing act!
He was such a long-legged dog, too!
These are the Colombian trading boats that come with supplies to Kuna Yala. From their appearance, it is amazing they stay afloat. They bring limited provisions and leave with their holds full of coconuts, the primary product from Kuna Yala.
From one island, we decided to do a river tour. Greg headed off in the kayak.
Up the river, we found a water pipe. Ralph waded into the river for an inpromptu shower. I was worried (what else is new) about what might be lurking in the river...so I remained dirty and smelly!
More Kuna kids. We've found the Kuna to be very friendly, especially in the more tradional villages. The kids like their photos taken, but no all the adults do, so you have to be cautious.
Back in central San Blas, we set up our monkey golf game. A young boy and his Dad came by and started watching. Greg invited them to play. The little boy played, right away, but the Dad held off for awhile.
While we were playing, this ulu came by with coconuts for sale. Gumboots, flip flops, or knock-off crocks seem to be the footwear of choice, but mostly bare feet rule.
Meanwhile, back at the game, the Dad (on the right) is now participating and we have a new addition in the white shirt too! Our game gets side-lined as Greg entertains the troups. Just before this shot is taken, we were standing on the beach. The fellow in the white shirt was supposed to get us some beer and bread from town. No beer, but he did bring bread. We were there, paying him, and a coconut fell from a tree and just missed me by about 3 feet. We've seen this happen at least twice before, to other people...scary!! One of those on the head would have killed me, I'm sure!!
As the father and son were leaving, they scooped buckets and buckets of sand into their ulu. They will use it to add to their lot back on the island.
Dad and son set up their sail for the trip home.
Enroute in the San Blas, fisherman Greg catches the biggest fish yet!
It was great timing, because we were meeting up with Southern Belle, and others, for a pot luck. Greg brought and cooked this fish! I had the night off!
The potluck was aboard Sympatica, friends of George and Melinda of Southern Belle. It is a 50 foot cat...just huge, and beautiful.
This was the view from the cafe.
This dog kept climbing to the top of the sandpile, after "slip sliding away". I guess it was a cool spot for him as it was a very hot and humid day.
We took a look in some of the non-stores for a few essentials. Greg was getting hot, tired, and bored.
We happened upon the local meat market. As we were standing in the street, along came this open cart, lined with black plastic. The cargo was completely uncovered and God only knows how far they had come already.
At the palapa, they began unloading their cargo, onto the tables inside or hanging from hooks. We couldn't believe it was meat...looked like beef. All the dogs in the neighbourhood showed up, along with the village dwellers.
There is a strong military presence in this town, as I gather there is in all of Colombia. It would be terribly hot in those uniforms. 
Greg decided to hike back, over the hill, to Sapzuro. We waited for the panga ride.
Here I am looking out at the waves, contemplating my fate and wondering if I should have walked. The trouble is, my feet hadn't yet healed from the last walk...so it wasn't really an option. Our panga driver was late, and who should arrive but the Johnny we were supposed to talk to in the first place...his panga was 3 times the size of the one we'd used...and he charged the same $$!! !*!!$%%$%%^&&**** So much for the assumption that one panga is the same as all the others!!! I contemplated hopping aboard (since he offered us a ride) when our panga driver came over the horizon. Against my better judgement, we went with the original guy. It was the ride from hell! The waves were so big we couldn't see the horizon. I was scared out of my wits!! The life jackets were old, wet, and salty...probably wouldn't have kept me afloat anyway! So, I just gripped one in case we went over. I'm sure I will die if we go over and, while I'm contemplating this, Ralph looks back and sees that our driver is FISHING!!! Then, to top it off he catches a plastic bag, stops the motor amidst these seas, and takes it off the hook!!!!! I am completely devoid of Spanish (because of all the fear) so can't say a word. Ralph laughs, and says, "Let's go!" to him, and off we go. We did arrive, yet again, safe and sound but soaked!! On the upside, we didn't get any ticks on our trip back, Greg got two new ones!We left Colombia the next day and progressed back up through the San Blas, meeting up with Southern Belle, on our way to Linton (for food and money) and on to Shelter Bay for fuel.
In one of the anchorages enroute, these girls and a fellow came out to collect their $10 anchoring fee. These charges really tick me off (especially since we are so short of money). I was not in a good mood when Ralph invited them aboard.
They wanted their photo taken, but then wanted the hard copy and said they'd come back tomorrow. Ralph had trouble explaining that they could view it in the camera, but we couldn't print it. Their Spanish was somewhat limited. They all speak their native Kuna, and only learn Spanish, in school, up to the mandatory attendance to grade 3, unless they elect to continue on. I'm guessing few go to school past that as there aren't schools on ever island.
Again, in one of the island we had another huge storm. This is Ralph's cue to get out, wash the deck, open the water intake and collect water. Our watermaker had been giving us trouble, so it seemed like a good idea. Since then, Ralph has managed to repair the problem, so we can make water again.
This water is being collected in a matter of seconds, off the side of the boat. We do laundry, in buckets, in the cockpit, during these downpours too. It's much cleaner water than we've used from the rivers and wells in Kuna Yala.
Something is lost in the photo, but I'm trying to show the rainfall.
Greg gets involved...washing this and than and a shower all at once!!
Lots of wind at the same time. You can see the rain and wind waves on the water. Keep in mind, this is a flat, calm anchorage at other times.
The happy water collectors!
Greg has decided to not cut his hair for the whole time he's with us...it's getting pretty long and unruly...is this some form of parent torture...we're the ones who have to look at him! Actually, it doesn't look so bad and is getting quite blonde! He'll be sorry when he cuts it all off...gone will be his surfer look.
Loved this balancing act!
He was such a long-legged dog, too!
These are the Colombian trading boats that come with supplies to Kuna Yala. From their appearance, it is amazing they stay afloat. They bring limited provisions and leave with their holds full of coconuts, the primary product from Kuna Yala.
From one island, we decided to do a river tour. Greg headed off in the kayak.
Up the river, we found a water pipe. Ralph waded into the river for an inpromptu shower. I was worried (what else is new) about what might be lurking in the river...so I remained dirty and smelly!
More Kuna kids. We've found the Kuna to be very friendly, especially in the more tradional villages. The kids like their photos taken, but no all the adults do, so you have to be cautious.
Back in central San Blas, we set up our monkey golf game. A young boy and his Dad came by and started watching. Greg invited them to play. The little boy played, right away, but the Dad held off for awhile.
While we were playing, this ulu came by with coconuts for sale. Gumboots, flip flops, or knock-off crocks seem to be the footwear of choice, but mostly bare feet rule.
Meanwhile, back at the game, the Dad (on the right) is now participating and we have a new addition in the white shirt too! Our game gets side-lined as Greg entertains the troups. Just before this shot is taken, we were standing on the beach. The fellow in the white shirt was supposed to get us some beer and bread from town. No beer, but he did bring bread. We were there, paying him, and a coconut fell from a tree and just missed me by about 3 feet. We've seen this happen at least twice before, to other people...scary!! One of those on the head would have killed me, I'm sure!!
As the father and son were leaving, they scooped buckets and buckets of sand into their ulu. They will use it to add to their lot back on the island.
Dad and son set up their sail for the trip home.
Enroute in the San Blas, fisherman Greg catches the biggest fish yet!
It was great timing, because we were meeting up with Southern Belle, and others, for a pot luck. Greg brought and cooked this fish! I had the night off!
The potluck was aboard Sympatica, friends of George and Melinda of Southern Belle. It is a 50 foot cat...just huge, and beautiful.
We continued moving on to Linton, where we took a trip into Colon to check back into Panama, get money, and add to our provisions. Colon is an extremely scary town where you have to take taxis, even if you're only going one block!! We thought Panama City was bad, but this was worse. The poverty there is overwhelming. We couldn't get out of there fast enough!!
We then headed up to Colon, by boat, because we needed to stop in Shelter Bay Marina to get fuel.
Here we are, in Shelter Bay Marina...the first true marina in over two years! It's great to have power, water, and a laundry! Such luxury!!
Another shot of Fortuitous in luxury!
Ralph and Greg went off for a 10km hike. I've learned my lesson...no fort or village is worth that to me! I stayed home and worked on this blog!
Looks like and interesting fort, though! They were tired, when they got back, even though they thumbed a ride for part of the return trek.
So, that brings us all up to date! We're still here in the marina, but planning to leave tomorrow for Chargras. Greg is contemplating helping our friends aboard Andante transit the canal, and het to Costa Rica. They want to ship their boat home to Washington state from there. All is up in the air, so we'll see what unfolds. If Greg does this, we'll probably only go to Rio Chagras, then back to the San Blas. We'll visit Bocas another time.
We then headed up to Colon, by boat, because we needed to stop in Shelter Bay Marina to get fuel.
Here we are, in Shelter Bay Marina...the first true marina in over two years! It's great to have power, water, and a laundry! Such luxury!!
Another shot of Fortuitous in luxury!
Ralph and Greg went off for a 10km hike. I've learned my lesson...no fort or village is worth that to me! I stayed home and worked on this blog!
Looks like and interesting fort, though! They were tired, when they got back, even though they thumbed a ride for part of the return trek.So, that brings us all up to date! We're still here in the marina, but planning to leave tomorrow for Chargras. Greg is contemplating helping our friends aboard Andante transit the canal, and het to Costa Rica. They want to ship their boat home to Washington state from there. All is up in the air, so we'll see what unfolds. If Greg does this, we'll probably only go to Rio Chagras, then back to the San Blas. We'll visit Bocas another time.
Hope you've enjoyed our photo update! Don't forget, you can leave comments, but you must sign in first!
1 comment:
Great stories! I reacll a trip long ago before digital photos and e-mail where I was unable to share the adventure with anyone.
So keep it coming!
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