Siananda and Canoa

Up the river from our boat mooring is another "marina" with bow and stern ties. They are building a bridge between here and there, so they'll soon be out of business...if the economy picks up enough to complete the bridge. Siananda is kind of an animal refuge/retreat. We just loved the turtle line-up.

Spot the turtles!

The place is chock-a-block full of peacocks, but only a couple of white ones.

There are several boats up there and this is Revenir, our sister ship.

These are "Ano Viejos" or paper mache dolls for New Years. They are all over town in the weeks before New Years Eve. They cost from $5 to $30 each. These were on the wharf for the pangas to travel across the estuary to San Vicente and Canoa.

Canoa is a surfing village. Very nice beaches.

We went for a walk to find the property some fellow cruisers had purchased. I just can't imagine buying property and building here. It's overcast most of the time and a very difficult place to get to as there are no airports close by.

This is the panga ride back.

It is quite a ride.

Christmas in Bahia

We had a terrific dinner in the Puerto Amistad restaurant. Somehow Ralph managed to volunteer me to make the turkey stuffing. It turned out well, although it would have been better if I didn't get sausage meat with chilies in it (fished out a lot of them, but not all), and if it had have been cooked inside the turkey rather than in foil. There were no complaints. Ecuadorians hadn't had that before and seemed to enjoy it.

This year Ralph "lost" his reindeer hat to Gregorio, the son of one of the employees at Amistad. He just fell in love with it, so we gave it to him.

Christmas Day, 2008, for Fortuitous

We had a mystery Santa game and I ended up with a nice bottle of wine. We'd brought one to give away, and also 3 videos. The videos and wine were a big hit and stolen often from the other guests.

What do we do all day?

For those of you who think we lie about, all day, in our hammock...I've got news for you. This is a little of what we've been up to and how Fortuitous looks most of the time. Unfortunately, we didn't take any photos of the mildewed cupboards and such...perhaps I was crying too hard!!Those are bottles of fresh water behind me.

Each one had to be lifted on board and then emptied into our tanks. Heavy, hot work.

We had 30 bottles in this load, but had 20 or so to empty right after we first arrived in Bahia.

This is our hired help, Ariusto. He was just fabulous and, without him, I think we'd be still working here for another month!

Ralph hard at it.

This is how our cockpit looks much of the time when we are up to our navels in work. Not the picture of comfort.

And this would be our "guest quarters". Keep this in mind all you friends and family that keep threatening to visit us!!

Return to Bahia & Trip to Quito, Dec. 08

We left Vancouver, for Ecuador, Dec. 4th. But, on AC points you can’t actually get there from here! So, we had one night in Toronto, one in Lima and then two in Guayaquil, before bussing to Bahia. We found Fortuitous in decent shape outside, but we had a lot of mildew inside. Strange how our boat caretaker didn’t notice it??

We have spent many days trying to ready Fortuitous to leave Ecuador. In the middle of it all, we took a trip to Quito and Otavalo, a town 2 hours from Quito and famous for it’s Saturday market. I hope you enjoy the photos…we certainly enjoyed our trip…well, except for the “lost” back pack part. More to follow.

Once in Bahia, we set to work on Fortuitous. Others were well ahead of us with their boat chores and boats are leaving for Panama every week. This is a shot of several leaving the estuary. As you can see, it’s a bit shallow and tricky. We’re not especially looking forward to going through those breakers out there!

We needed a few supplies to survive until we left for Quito. Off to Bahia market we went. Just a little different from shopping at home!

Many "shops" are just the back of a truck!

Turkey, anyone? I’m guessing that none of you bought your Christmas turkey on the hoof...er paw...er foot…am I right?

Just another regular shopping day for a cruiser!

This is the hard way to clean the bottom!! Actually, Vilisar is a wood boat and is getting a sacrificial “worm shoe” or board that protects the keel.

So, after a week's work on Fortuitous, we headed off by bus to Manta. We planned to fly to Quito from there as we found flights for the two of us for $120. We arrived, after 3 hours, but my back pack did not!! I couldn’t believe it when Ralph said, “We’re missing a backpack.” We’d put them above us in the bus rack. We’d left straps hanging over so we could keep an eye on everything. Apparently, that wasn’t enough! Mine was gone and we didn’t know where it happened. There are so many vendors and passengers getting on and off…it could have been anywhere. We didn’t see it go by, so it’s possible it was thrown out the window. We know people who have lost luggage even when they put it below and have a ticket for it. We also know others where children have climbed under the seats and slit open the packs. Still others had their packs between their legs and then turned around to find the passengers behind them, in the bus, going through their bags without them feeling a thing. So, we’re not alone but still felt so stupid and pissed off! Quito is 2800 metres up in the Andes, so I needed some warm clothing. I was wearing the shorts of my zip off pants, but lost the bottoms. Along with another pair, sweatshirt, jacket, t-shirts, undies, etc. and our small underwater camera. We had a little time, before our flight in Manta, so off we went to the mall to by long pants and a jacket for me. The rest would have to wait till Quito.

We arrived in Quito, checked into the hotel and spent the rest of the day purchasing clothing for me. This is not fun, here, nor easy to do. Latinas like their clothing painted on, so finding something that doesn’t appear that way is next to impossible. I was finally outfitted with some XL t-shirts and found enough other “replacement” clothing to get by.

We arrived on a Tuesday, so we spent Wed. and Thursday wandering around Quito. In the town square, as in all Latin countries, there are plenty of men sitting around. This gives you an idea of all the various skin colours of Ecuador. One wonders where the women are?

It seems that the women have the hardest lives. They have to care for the kids (many have several from different relationships), cook, clean, launder, and work another job or in the fields. You never see a woman lying in a hammock in the middle of the day, but often see a man.

We didn’t much like our first hotel, but this one was fine.

It had a lovely inner courtyard.

A couple hours out of Quito is the Equator. This is called La Mitad del Mundo. We took a day trip out there.

Back in Quito, we saw this “FTD” lady...flower delivery on a different level!

In the mall, and still trying to find enough clothing, Ralph loved this Christmas sign! J is pronounced H so this is HO, HO, HO!

Quito has its own artisan market. This lady was just “buried in her work.” We showed her the photo. That made her smile!

Quito has a skyride or Teleferico. We went up to see the view of the city. It was overcast most of the time, so we couldn’t see anything from the top. However, we could see quite a bit on the way up.

Quito is very spread out and every “level” piece of land has construction of some sort.

We visited all the requisite churches, but the Basilica was our favourite. The stained glass was amazing.

It is a huge building and the dome is also stained glass.

It is about 150 years old, but appears much older. The gargoyles are animals of Ecuador and the Galapagos.

We took a taxi to Otavalo…we were still feeling a little bus shy but the driver also had said he’d give us a tour as well. Unfortunately, it didn’t turn out to be a great tour, but I did arrive with all my clothing!! Travelling the roads of all of these Latin American countries, you not only take your life in you hands with the drivers, there is always the livestock to deal with.

In Otavalo, while looking for our hotel, we passed a couple of children’s choirs singing carols on the street. When it’s hot and sunny, it doesn’t feel much like Christmas. This was really neat to see and hear and made us feel that it was the Christmas season. We’d also, in Quito, had the good fortune to run into a free Christmas concert in the large theatre across from a restaurant where we were having pizza. It was free, and also a children’s choir. Very enjoyable!

After settling into our hotel, we were getting ready to have a bite to eat and then wander around a bit. We ran into fellow cruisers, Joan and Dan off Mainly. They were heading to the Condor Park, so we tagged along. This juvenile condor had been injured, so couldn’t be freed.

He just loved to entertain us!

This Harpy eagle had a face almost like an owl.

A snowy owl just changing colour.

This was the full grown condor, and he too liked to show off. It is difficult to tell, but these birds are huge…almost the size of an ostrich but without the long legs!

In the background is the Imbabura Volcano. It never did get clear enough to see the top.

After touring we attended the show. There was a large Dutch group, a couple of other young people and us. Apparently, this preserve is owned and funded by a Dutch fellow. The trainer would throw the bird off the edge of the cliff and back he would come.

In this shot, the bird had just flown between Ralph and I brushing our faces and necks with his wings…like the stealing of the backpack…never saw it coming!

This trainer was Dutch so we thought he might be the owner.

Joan got in line to hold one of the smaller birds.

Next morning, the market was in full swing. Something a-brewin’ on the stove.

We didn't eat here, either, but ate in a nice little restaurant near the market, instead.

These were the biggest cabbages we’d ever seen!

They must have been 2 to 3 feet across!

They were selling them everywhere, in the market, so it wasn’t just a fluke.

The colour of the fruits and vegetable displays was amazing!

A truckload of chickens arrives at the market.

For your dining pleasure!

This is how they were delivered from the truck to the stall for cooking or selling.

These grapes were huge as well…at least an inch and a half in diameter.

So much colour! It was mind-boggling!

Come to think of it, most of the veggies were extra large! Take a look at this broccoli!

Basket, anyone?

Spices by the bagful!

Here they are concocting some sort of liver remedy, according to the sign on the side of their cart.

We just loved the way the bottles looked in the sunshine.

This fellow was bagging oranges. He WAS NOT representative of the people in the market…in fact, that’s why he stood out! Most were very clean and well dressed.

This lady was selling something? for lunch…looks like innards to me!

Popcorn, anyone?

Some sort of drink wagon…but the colours were just beautiful!

Fabrics, hammocks, rugs, sweaters, tablecloths, blouses and embroidered products were the order of the day. Most of the people aren’t all that fond of having their photo taken. This lady was no exception.

Stone carvings by the hundreds.

Colour, colour, colour!

Ralph’s camera allows him to take photos from the hip and be less obvious. While we don’t always get the best shots, he can take so many that we end up with a few treasures. This is one.

This is another.

These old ladies sit here all day selling their meagre wares.

Pork, on the hoof, is extremely popular here In Ecuador.

While not very appetizing looking, the smell was good. Joan said it was delicious! We went back to our breakie restaurant, for lunch, instead.

What a cutie!

They love their beaded jewellery and many stalls sold it as well.

When it gets hot and sunny, any kind of cloth over your head will work to keep you in the shade.

This is the way the indigenous carry their babies.

It is amazing in that some of the kids are pretty big to be packing around. It’s also amazing, to me, that they just hang around like that for hours…no whining, kicking, or complaining.

Another pig bites the dust!

Looking down a street in Otavalo.

This was the church at the end of the market in Otavalo.

A tiny little old lady; probably begging.

The most popular mode of transportation.

Both for goods,

And people.

Children spend all day in these market stalls. Not much room to play or move around. Apparently, they don’t have ADHD kids! I don’t know how they’d manage if they did?

These are hammocks…what an array of colour!

The indigenous blouses are absolutely spectacular! Beautiful white, with lace and embroidery!

This little lady is knitting the touques you see in front of her.

This shopper has bagged herself some leaks and live chickens! Sounds like Chicken Leek soup, to me!

Again, the photos just don’t do the colour justice!

Chicken anyone? Maybe this was the “store” where the previous lady bought her dinner??

The chickens are all trussed up and lying on the sidewalk.

What a cute little face.

But, a study in contrast…the hat is very modern, but look at the Mother’s clothing.

I just can’t imagine how many hours of work are hanging on this fence!

Baby snuggly.

Again, the contrast…note the “Tommy” hat!

Deep fried fish! They actually looked pretty good, but we didn’t try them.

Concentration!

I’m guessing this is not a real “Tommy” hat! Counterfeit is the order of the day, in Ecuador. They make “levis” and many other fake products.

A typical lady in the market. Note the strings of beads!

Lunch break.

Hammocks and more hammocks!

Back in Quito, we revisited the Basilica with Joan and Dan.

This made Ralph happy as he had someone to accompany him in his climb to the top.

Strangely enough, there was this fancy restaurant on the top. It just seems wrong to have a glass of wine or a beer at the top of a church??!! There was also another bar in the courtyard of the church, below.

Dan in the bell tower.

And Ralph too!

Walking around town, we happened upon a display of Nativity scenes, made from recycled materials.

It was very well done. However, it has certainly not been our experience that Ecuadorians know much about keeping their country clean or recycling. However, as evidenced by this display, it appears they are making an attempt at making the public aware.

We sat outside a church, we’d already seen, and waited for Dan and Joan. This little girl, along with her Dad and the rest of his daughters were enjoying their ice cream cones. She kept turning and peeking at me…I guess we look pretty white to her!

On our taxi ride back to Bahia, from Manta, we came upon a Christmas procession. People where sitting on top of the bus.

This was the beginning of the procession…the band! Note the obvious attention to safety.

Back in Bahia, and two days before Christmas. We put up our Christmas tree and decorated Fortuitous. There will be a dinner in the restaurant on the 25th. All is closed for the 24th as that is their big Family Christmas Day.

Wishing you and yours a Very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! And, wishing our sons, Greg and Jeff, all the best of the season and, as always, know that we miss you and love you more than words can say!