Thursday 26 February 2009

Ensenada Los Negros


As always, the kids come running when you land on the beach. We were quite entertaining for them I'm sure, as we didn't realize this beach had so much reef out front. So, we stumbled and bumped ashore putting smiles on their faces, I'm sure. We're guessing the bays name comes from the colour of those rocks, not the colour of the people (although there are more blacks in Panama than anywhere else we've been so far).

They all seem to like having their photos taken but, as they get older, not so much. As you can see, the eldest isn't quite so sure about it all. The little girls, and the women, all wear the brightly coloured dresses with lace and ric-rac trimming.


And yet another!!



A beautiful sunset in Ensenada Los Negros.




Boca Chica and Ensenada Gamez

From Boca Chica we took a day trip into the closest large city, David. This was quite an experience, as always. Carol and I got haircuts for $2 and, I'm sad to say, they looked exactly like the price we were charged!! We're still trying to grow them out. We both gave instructions to two different girls, but came out looking very similar. This is difficult to do as Carol has very curly hair and I do not! Enough said.
These are all our groceries, in the dark, on the bow of that panga taking us back to Fortuitous and Nuage. There's our laundry too. I was somewhat miffed as the kid driving the panga had 2 young girls with him and was far more interested in them than getting our laundry back to our boat in a clean dry state. Again, enough said!!!
Dave sits back and enjoys the ride back to the boat. The fun doesn't end as we get all this stuff aboard, then we have to put it all away somewhere. This, for me, is usually a 2 day job as wherever I used to store something is usually now a home for something else. So, the old something has to be moved, in order to accommodate the new something. And on it goes.
And yet another pelican wants to call Fortuitous home.


Shelling on the beach while Ralph hikes up the hill.



This shows the water temperature at 41. Shortly after this, the thing went on the fritz so we're not sure that was correct. In fact, it probably wasn't because it didn't feel that hot, but was quite comfortable.




Wednesday 11 February 2009

Boca Chica, February 11, 2009

Today, I am in the throes of trying to find places for all the provisions bought yesterday. Boca Chica is a tiny town with one gas pump, one tienda (store) that you stand in a window and point for things, and one tienda that is 10' X 20'. This isn't good enough for what we need since we haven't shopped for over a month.

We left early morning and went to the dinghy dock for the restaurant. From there, you can take a panga into Boca Chica and then a small mini bus (in terrible shape) to the highway. At the Pan American, you pick up a bus to take you to David. All very involved. We got to the dinghy dock and the restaurant, come hostel, also had a load of kids with huge backpacks. The panga trip went well, but it wasn't looking good for the mini van. David, on Nuage, talked to a taxi driver and we negotiated $70 for a crew cab truck to take us in, around David, and back again. Turned out to be a great deal as we had a lot of running around to do. We need to go back to actually visit and see the town, but we did get all our shopping done. Ralph also got our wind generator bearings pulled off (he didn't have the tool) and a new pair of sandals. The trip took all day and we arrived back after sunset. We had a full load in the pick-up and then we had to find a panga to take us back to Fortuitous. All went well. We loaded the fridge stuff away, and stowed some of the fruits and veggies. Now, I'm finding places for all the dry goods and Ralph is putting the wind generator back together.

We'd like to take another trip to David, just to look around. So, we'll see how long we'll be here.

Boca Chica, February 10th, 2009

We arrived in Boca Chica on Sunday, Feb. 8th. We thought the strong northerlies would be over, so left our nice secure anchorage in Isla Parida...but that was a big mistake! We saw 35 kts outside the entrance to the estuary leading to Boca Chica. It was extremely boisterous, to say the least!! Boca Chica is a tiny little town with no real dinghy landing and a few houses. We have been "boat bound" since then by the same winds. They were steady 15 to 20 with gusts to 35!! On top of that, there is a strong current in here. When we came in, it was so windy we just dropped the hook outside the other boats and prayed we'd stay hooked. We thought we could move later, if/when the wind calmed down. Well, we're still in the same spot and have been battered broadside as the wind hits us from that direction as we are facing into the river current. There are lots of back eddies and different current directions so boats seem to face every which way. It's all a bit hairy for us!! It seemed to calm down last night, so we tried out the restaurant on the point. It was still pretty windy up there, but a nice change since we haven't been in one for over a month!
Today we are heading into David, a larger city, to get supplies etc.
This is a little sand islet on the way into the anchorage for Boca Chica. Ralph would like to buy it.











The view from Frank's restaurant. A fisherman's lot is not an easy one...fishing or dodging pelican doo doo!










Nuage and Fortuitous in relative calm down below the restaurant.
This is deceptive as it is still blowing and a very strong current.
Sunset in Boca Chica

Isla Parida, February 3rd to 8th

We left Isla Secas as we wanted to explore another island. We headed for Isla Parida, part of a national park. Turns out, according to a resident caretaker, that the boat taking the fees hasn't been seen for weeks. Ensenada Varadero doesn't have nice clear water at all. The entire bay is about 20' deep at high tide, and there's a few streams running into it. We miss that clear water, as it's not nearly as inviting for swimming here. However, Northerlies have come up and this is a good place to be as it is very protected. We wouldn't want to be in the Secas for this. We get some strong gusts of wind, but not fetch (waves).
We've met Daniel, the caretaker for the resort being built of Isla Paridita. He speaks perfect English as he was coached by a Canadian school teacher a few years back. He reads dictionaries in his spare time. He offered to bring us back some supplies from Boca Chica. What a great guy. We also traded with a boatload of fishermen, one evening: 3/4 bottle of rum for a huge filleted and skinned dorado (mahi mahi). We have enough fish for 11 meals! the freezer is full again! We ate some the next night...fabulous! On the main island is a caretaker family with 3 kids. We went to visit them at their "home" See the photos below! The kids were really sweet. We gave the boys a little dinky car each and the girl a little stuffed bunny. They were ecstatic! We want to develop some photos and bring them back as they were so keen to see each photo after it was taken. There is a large water pipe spilling lots of clean water on shore. Carol, from Nuage, did all her laundry that way. I did some...still lots for the locals in Boca Chica to do!



Sunset in Ensenada Varadero in Isla Parida.













From Isla Parida. This is the view from the property where the caretakers, below, have their home.












The family, and house. Very friendly and very poor! The house, behind them, must be all of 9' by 12'.












The three boys, with "Lucky" our dinghy! Just terrific kids!













Home made car...there was another a little smaller. The wheels are fish floats.













Each time we took a photo, they wanted to see themselves. Here, Carol and Dave are sharing some of their shots with them. We want to get some prints made and return to give them copies.

















What is it about Fortuitous and birds? This pelican thought he'd drop in!















We ushered him into the water. But, he then hopped up on the dinghy and had to be shooed away.






Wash day on the beach...the washing environment is great...but still not a fun job! Especially by hand/foot in buckets! When was the last time any of you did that?








The Kristina K. We traded the rum for the dorado with these fishermen anchored beside us.












This is the entire family, on the beach, during our wash day. Dad works for the new resort being built on the smaller island across the bay.