Friday 30 April 2010

San Blas To Cartagena

Here are a few photos of our journey to Cartagena. We left Shelter Bay April 27th, and ended up in Isla Grande. We weren't sure if we were going to do a straight shot, or stop along the way. Turns out, we stopped here.
We headed off again, the next morning, for an overnighter to Cartagena. We had confused seas and winds, but a lovely sunset.
We hit a few squalls, enroute, but mostly a motorboat ride. Again, a lovely sunset/sunrise?? shot.

April 30th, 2010

Left Shelter Bay Tuesday afternoon and overnighted in Isla Grande, Panama, near Linton. Left there at 6 am aiming to stop in San Blas. That didn't happen as we heard there could be some "weather" coming up. We are presently one hour outside Boca Chica, Cartagena. Our first night out was very comfortable until Ralph came on shift and I went down to go to sleep at 2 am. A big squall was straight ahead, and several others surrounding. No avoiding them. It was a very uncomfortable 4 hours passing through...rough and lots of lightning.

Last night was very uneventful. We have been motoring or motor sailing the whole way. We'll tie to the dock, in Manzanillo boat yard and put Fortuitous on the hard on Monday as the travel lift is down for maintenance right now.

Monday 5 April 2010

Shelter Bay Marina, April 2010

We are currently in Shelter Bay Marina, Panama. This is the first time, in over 3 months, we have had any form of internet, other than emails via our HAM radio. It is Ralph's birthday, today (April 4th). I am loading photos from early January, our transit through the panama canal. All photos are on the preceding pages so please scroll down. Hope you enjoy our voyage!

To Colombia and back, March 2010

Our 90 day visas ran out so we had to check out of Panama and check in and out of Colombia, then return to Panama in order to go to Rio Chagras and Boca del Toro-our next planned stops. All was a heap of trouble, but necessary. We left for Sapzuro Colombia...about a 3 night trip with stops at various San Blas island in between.

Enroute, fisherman Greg worked very hard (as you can see) to procure dinner for us.

Below is the bay in Sapzuro. It was quite a rolly anchorage, so we put out our "flopper stopper". We were told, by others who had been there before, to talk to Johnny, a panga driver, about getting a ride to Caprigana (a small town 15 minutes down the coast). We needed to go there as that is where the immigration office is, but there is no anchorage in this town. However when we trying to anchor in Sapzuro, a small blue panga came out right away and buzzed us all during our anchoring process...quite annoying really. He obviously wanted to offer some sort of service, but he bumped us a couple of times as he got too close. Long story longer, Ralph decided to go with this guy since he thought one panga was the same as all the others. More later about this assumption!



We had scheduled to leave for the immigration office the next morning. Overnight, and next morning we had the rainstorm from hell. It was still pouring when 10am came (our scheduled departure time). We decided to postpone the trip till the next day. The bay, the usual green sea colour to begin with, gradually turned a muddy brown from the run-off.



We just watched the brown progress through the bay, along with branches, logs, etc.

Next morning, he came to pick us up along with 2 or 3 other fellows off different boats. Although we have no photos of this, this was not a fun trip. We headed out to open ocean and around the corner. The swells, from the storm, and wind wave were both pretty high. I've seen panga fishermen out in that and thought they were nuts...yet here I was!! What was I thinking...I'll tell you what I was thinking...I was wondering what the trip back would be like since the wind is always higher in the afternoon (and we were due to return at 4). We arrived safe and sound, did our check-in/out, and went to some hole in the wall cafe for a not so sumptuous lunch.

This was the view from the cafe.


This dog kept climbing to the top of the sandpile, after "slip sliding away". I guess it was a cool spot for him as it was a very hot and humid day.

We took a look in some of the non-stores for a few essentials. Greg was getting hot, tired, and bored.

We happened upon the local meat market. As we were standing in the street, along came this open cart, lined with black plastic. The cargo was completely uncovered and God only knows how far they had come already.

At the palapa, they began unloading their cargo, onto the tables inside or hanging from hooks. We couldn't believe it was meat...looked like beef. All the dogs in the neighbourhood showed up, along with the village dwellers.

There is a strong military presence in this town, as I gather there is in all of Colombia. It would be terribly hot in those uniforms.

Greg decided to hike back, over the hill, to Sapzuro. We waited for the panga ride.
Here I am looking out at the waves, contemplating my fate and wondering if I should have walked. The trouble is, my feet hadn't yet healed from the last walk...so it wasn't really an option. Our panga driver was late, and who should arrive but the Johnny we were supposed to talk to in the first place...his panga was 3 times the size of the one we'd used...and he charged the same $$!! !*!!$%%$%%^&&**** So much for the assumption that one panga is the same as all the others!!! I contemplated hopping aboard (since he offered us a ride) when our panga driver came over the horizon. Against my better judgement, we went with the original guy. It was the ride from hell! The waves were so big we couldn't see the horizon. I was scared out of my wits!! The life jackets were old, wet, and salty...probably wouldn't have kept me afloat anyway! So, I just gripped one in case we went over. I'm sure I will die if we go over and, while I'm contemplating this, Ralph looks back and sees that our driver is FISHING!!! Then, to top it off he catches a plastic bag, stops the motor amidst these seas, and takes it off the hook!!!!! I am completely devoid of Spanish (because of all the fear) so can't say a word. Ralph laughs, and says, "Let's go!" to him, and off we go. We did arrive, yet again, safe and sound but soaked!! On the upside, we didn't get any ticks on our trip back, Greg got two new ones!
We left Colombia the next day and progressed back up through the San Blas, meeting up with Southern Belle, on our way to Linton (for food and money) and on to Shelter Bay for fuel.

In one of the anchorages enroute, these girls and a fellow came out to collect their $10 anchoring fee. These charges really tick me off (especially since we are so short of money). I was not in a good mood when Ralph invited them aboard.
They wanted their photo taken, but then wanted the hard copy and said they'd come back tomorrow. Ralph had trouble explaining that they could view it in the camera, but we couldn't print it. Their Spanish was somewhat limited. They all speak their native Kuna, and only learn Spanish, in school, up to the mandatory attendance to grade 3, unless they elect to continue on. I'm guessing few go to school past that as there aren't schools on ever island.
Again, in one of the island we had another huge storm. This is Ralph's cue to get out, wash the deck, open the water intake and collect water. Our watermaker had been giving us trouble, so it seemed like a good idea. Since then, Ralph has managed to repair the problem, so we can make water again.
This water is being collected in a matter of seconds, off the side of the boat. We do laundry, in buckets, in the cockpit, during these downpours too. It's much cleaner water than we've used from the rivers and wells in Kuna Yala.
Something is lost in the photo, but I'm trying to show the rainfall.
Greg gets involved...washing this and than and a shower all at once!!

Lots of wind at the same time. You can see the rain and wind waves on the water. Keep in mind, this is a flat, calm anchorage at other times.
The happy water collectors!
Greg has decided to not cut his hair for the whole time he's with us...it's getting pretty long and unruly...is this some form of parent torture...we're the ones who have to look at him! Actually, it doesn't look so bad and is getting quite blonde! He'll be sorry when he cuts it all off...gone will be his surfer look.
Loved this balancing act!
He was such a long-legged dog, too!
These are the Colombian trading boats that come with supplies to Kuna Yala. From their appearance, it is amazing they stay afloat. They bring limited provisions and leave with their holds full of coconuts, the primary product from Kuna Yala.
From one island, we decided to do a river tour. Greg headed off in the kayak.
Up the river, we found a water pipe. Ralph waded into the river for an inpromptu shower. I was worried (what else is new) about what might be lurking in the river...so I remained dirty and smelly!
More Kuna kids. We've found the Kuna to be very friendly, especially in the more tradional villages. The kids like their photos taken, but no all the adults do, so you have to be cautious.

Back in central San Blas, we set up our monkey golf game. A young boy and his Dad came by and started watching. Greg invited them to play. The little boy played, right away, but the Dad held off for awhile.
While we were playing, this ulu came by with coconuts for sale. Gumboots, flip flops, or knock-off crocks seem to be the footwear of choice, but mostly bare feet rule.
Meanwhile, back at the game, the Dad (on the right) is now participating and we have a new addition in the white shirt too! Our game gets side-lined as Greg entertains the troups. Just before this shot is taken, we were standing on the beach. The fellow in the white shirt was supposed to get us some beer and bread from town. No beer, but he did bring bread. We were there, paying him, and a coconut fell from a tree and just missed me by about 3 feet. We've seen this happen at least twice before, to other people...scary!! One of those on the head would have killed me, I'm sure!!
As the father and son were leaving, they scooped buckets and buckets of sand into their ulu. They will use it to add to their lot back on the island.
Dad and son set up their sail for the trip home.

Enroute in the San Blas, fisherman Greg catches the biggest fish yet!


It was great timing, because we were meeting up with Southern Belle, and others, for a pot luck. Greg brought and cooked this fish! I had the night off!


The potluck was aboard Sympatica, friends of George and Melinda of Southern Belle. It is a 50 foot cat...just huge, and beautiful.
We continued moving on to Linton, where we took a trip into Colon to check back into Panama, get money, and add to our provisions. Colon is an extremely scary town where you have to take taxis, even if you're only going one block!! We thought Panama City was bad, but this was worse. The poverty there is overwhelming. We couldn't get out of there fast enough!!
We then headed up to Colon, by boat, because we needed to stop in Shelter Bay Marina to get fuel.

Here we are, in Shelter Bay Marina...the first true marina in over two years! It's great to have power, water, and a laundry! Such luxury!!

Another shot of Fortuitous in luxury!

Ralph and Greg went off for a 10km hike. I've learned my lesson...no fort or village is worth that to me! I stayed home and worked on this blog!

Looks like and interesting fort, though! They were tired, when they got back, even though they thumbed a ride for part of the return trek.

So, that brings us all up to date! We're still here in the marina, but planning to leave tomorrow for Chargras. Greg is contemplating helping our friends aboard Andante transit the canal, and het to Costa Rica. They want to ship their boat home to Washington state from there. All is up in the air, so we'll see what unfolds. If Greg does this, we'll probably only go to Rio Chagras, then back to the San Blas. We'll visit Bocas another time.

Hope you've enjoyed our photo update! Don't forget, you can leave comments, but you must sign in first!

The Dreaded Mandingo Hike, March 2010

To get the full apreciation of this page, you must first read the March 11th blog page before this. This will give you all the info you need to understand the photos here. I will only give brief captions here, so as not to be too repetitive. Let's just say, this was the hike from hell for me!



Ralph and Greg really wanted to join Southern Belle on the hike in the Robeson group. We got off to a very bad start by running somewhat aground coming around the island above and into the anchorage. Our chart plotter was way off, and we didn't check our chart book carefully enough. Thank God we plowed right through and are not still stuck there!! We don't like coming into these anchorages with the wrong light, but we did that! Not smart as you can't see the reef. We won't do that again.
Here we are safely at anchor!

This is the next morning and all looks fine at this point. George is happy, we're all happy. We've just finished up the long panga ride to the entrance of the river. This trip was billed as a river tour/hike...but the river tour was about 15 minutes. The 1 to 2 hour hike was about 4...through muck, mostly (it could not have rained any harder the night before the hike). It was up the Mandingo river. It sounded like a decent hike for me because we were supposed to be back by 1, after leaving at 8. As well, it was termed a flat hike. What could go wrong?

Here we are in the river portion of the trip...still all happy!

The river gets narrower and narrower, and pretty soon there is no more river.

The hike's beginning. Nice! Shaded!! This is for me! It looks like I made the right decision. My gut feeling was no, but I decided I'd better try to look athletic!

OK, this isn't good! I don't like this sort of bridge, but I manage.


Here's a better view...slippery and narrow. Right after this, my first sandal falls apart. 5 minutes later, the other. Thankfully George has string in his pack...I trudge on.

This is the path...notice we're walking on the sides since the path is flooded. After awhile, we just gave up and trudged through the water.


This is already not fun, but I'm still thinking...only 30 more minutes till we arrive.


We have to ford a river to reach the actual village. This wouldn't be so bad if your sandals weren't filling with water and wanting to float downstream with the current. As well, I had such big holes in my heels, from the rubbing sandals, that I could barely walk. Eventually, I put moleskin (from George) on the sorest parts and hoped it would stay on in the water and muck.

Some people were having a good time in the river, even if I wasn't.

I could have taken an horse back to the boat...but, with the way horses and I get along, and the muddy ride back...I was caught between a rock and a hard place. I opted for pain and walking on my own.

Like I said, some people in the river by the village were having a great time!

This lady wasn't having any more fun than I was in the river.


She was busy doing her laundry in the "laundry ulu?" There were several of these boats here and they looked to be only used for laundry. This village has no road, only the path we came up and limited river access.


In town, we paid the Saila for our visit and talked to the kids outside the school.



A young Kuna girl. Life must be so boring for these kids.

As if I wasn't having enough fun, we all purchased a fine meal of fried plantains and sardines in tomato sauce...mmmm!! All for $2 each!

What a charming little restaurant!


The fellow in the red is our leader, Justino. The other is the "cook".
After this lunch we headed back down that long path and didn't arrive back at our boat until 5pm. What a long day. I had large sores on my feet for 2 weeks. What a trip!! Next time I'll go with my gut!

These are my tevas after the hike. The band-aid on the side is to stop the sandal from rubbing more skin off. Both soles are completely off and held on only by string. These were hardly worn sandals...I feel a nasty letter to Teva coming on!! To add insult to injury, the next day Southern Belle called, by radio, and told us they had found ticks on themselves. We did a check, and sure enough we had them too!!




Another typical ulu sailor.

The kids here came by the boats every day, peering in the windows and asking for candy. Here they're at Southern Belle.


This is the village they live in.

It's hard to imagine an existence like this one. These island have no water and have to bring it from the rivers on the mainland.


Southern Belle decided to finally invite a bunch of the kids aboard to play with Josh...what a group!



Southern Belle has a washing machine, we don't. This is laundry day for the boys (mom's feet are so destroyed from the hike that she can't go along). So, off they go together, up the river, to wash the clothes, sheets, and towels.

The met ulu-loads of kids and people getting water or doing laundry.

These were the others in the "laundromat".


Ralph and Greg helped these girls carry water to the ulu.



Not the kind of life our kids have at home, is it?

Finally, they get to do our own laundry...here Greg is demonstrating the power agitator!!

When they bring it back, we hang it all aboard to dry. Are we having fun yet?
As an aside, you can see below the comment from Teva. They found my blog, read it, and the end result of all the pain and suffering was a new free pair of sandals. I have to give them a star for customer relations!