Bahia de Caraquez, Ecuador May 24, 2008

We arrived in Ecuador 2 days ago after almost exactly six days at sea. We crossed the equator (well actually we crossed it 3 times...see earlier page) and we're now Shellbacks...we used to be pollywogs...don't ask me how you get from a "beginner frog" to a turtle, but that's the terminology.

It was a long slog, but looking back, not all that bad. Isn't that always the way, looking back it seems not so bad at all! Kind of like childbirth...if you really remembered all the gory details, you'd only have one!!

Since we've arrived, we've been catching up on sleep, eating out, socializing, and drinking...not necessarily in that order. It's a nice place here, much cooler and cheaper than either Mexico or anywhere in Central America. We are back to a land of $1 beer, but a glass of Chilean wine is also $1 at happy hour, or $2 regular...and all rum drinks are $2/$1 as well. A hamburger/fries in the marina restaurant costs $3.50, but off the premises you can get a lunch for $1.50. It seems a nice, clean little town...but we haven't really been here long enough to have seen too much yet.

We are off to Manta, Monday, to complete our check-in process with customs and immigration. That is a 2 hour ride, so we'll get to see a bit of the countryside.

Tripp (the owner of the marina) has been very helpful and makes it easy to enter the country. These countries have a TON of paperwork...any help that makes that easier is greatly appreciated. We are on a mooring ball, and are waiting for them to add another rope as there is a strong tidal/river current here. We are VERY salty, after taking a few waves/sprays over the deck and dodger. We are in great need of a wash down, but there is no dock to tie to. We are having water delivered to the boat, at .50 per 20 litres, so that we can do it as best as we can, without a hose. Tap water is not potable, but fine for a washdown. We'll have drinking water delivered upon our return to Ecuador in October, as we want to leave the water tanks empty while we're gone. We have to come up with a work plan/sched so we can enjoy being here but get all the crap done too. We may take a land trip before leaving for YVR, or maybe just tour a bit enroute to Lima...yet to be decided.

Great to be here!!

We are moored just off this spot.

At a restaurant, a block from the marina, we were approached by this youngster. We don't often pay for unsolicited entertainment, but his instrument was so unusual, that we made an exception. Unfortunately, you can't see it very well, but he accompanied himself by rubbing two clam shells together.

There are panga ferries running back and forth across the bay. They hand out life jackets, but many people don't wear them. That could be because they have probably been sweated into by many, many people.

Ecuador Arrival, May 22nd, 2008

Zephyrus and we arrived, in Bahia Caraquez, and anchored at 11:15 am this morning. Almost exactly 6 full days since leaving Costa Rica. We idled along, for the last 18 hours or so, as we didn't want to arrive here and have to wait around too long. We still arrived too early for entering on a high tide (there are bars in the entrance and we need enough depth to pass over them), so we are presently anchored outside the estuary. A pilot panga will be coming to guide us in at 4:30 pm. It is good to be here!!

We had a really good sail for much of the day, yesterday, until the wind was too close to on our nose and Fortuitous doesn't care for that. As well, the seas were VERY rough, with 6-8 foot swell, some larger, with wind wave on top. We had plenty of water over the bow, with left-over flying fish and baby squid on deck. We even took several splashes over the dodger! Neither Fortuitous nor her crew particularly care for that! So, we motor sailed...only slightly more comfortable as Fortuitous has the power to pound through some of the crap!

Ralph had a hard time getting any shut-eye before our Equator crossing. He tried to sleep because the Equator event was to happen during his down time, so he'd be missing some of his 4 to 5 straight hours for sleeping. However, once he went down for a nap, I looked back and the topping lift for the mizzen had come undone, and was flying in the breeze. For the landlubbers, this is a wire/rope that holds the boom horizontal when the sail isn't up. Thankfully, the sail was up, so it held the boom up and it didn't come crashing down on the deck. Ralph went out and managed, in very rough seas, to snag it with the pike pole...what a man!! I would have left it until it was calmer, although it is a bit embarrassing to have your flag flying 15 feet behind, and above the boat!

He tried again to have a nap but, shortly after he went down, I could see a light close by, but no sign on the radar. Because the radar showed nothing, at first I thought he was our buddy boat, since Zephyrus was in the same general area. I was also busy tracking a freighter and wondering if a it was going to run us down. I called Ralph up, and then this light started coming straight for us. We slowed down, and tried to avoid him, and finally we stopped. He came across our bow...apparently he had a long fishing line out and wanted us to steer to port. It was all kind of hairy as he waited too long to warn us, and we waited too long to slow down. Long story longer, we diverted to port and went around him. Ralph went back to bed for an hour, and then we arrived at the Equator.

We hadn't done much research on what the proper ceremony should be, but Ralph had read somewhere and had been whining about having a crown and dressing like Neptune or??? I said he could go ahead and do that, but I wasn't in the mood for any dress-up games! While he was sleeping, I relented and made him a lovely tin-foil crown. We got ourselves all set up for the crossing, camera in hand, took a couple of practice photos, then a photo of our wine glasses and carton of wine, then turned to wait for the crossing. OH MY GOD, WE'D MISSED IT!! We were already in the Southern Hemisphere, and had turned from "Polliwogs" into "Shellbacks" without knowing it or taking the requisite movie or photo!!! So, we turned around, re-crossed, and did it all again. This time we succeeded.
We had a glass of "Chateau de Carton" wine, and poured one into the sea for Neptune.
The actual crossing, third try!
One who hasn't had enough sleep, and one with that "deer in the headlights look"! Take your pick of who's who!!

WE'VE ARRIVED IN SOUTH AMERICA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

As of 11:15 am today:

Lat: 00 35 72 South
Long: 080 28 West
Distance made good: 92 nm
Distance remaining: ZERO!!!!!!

Enroute to Ecuador, May 21, 2008

We have been pretty much sailing since noon yesterday. We had a few hours, beginning just before my night watch, where we motor-sailed. The wind had died, just before beddie time for Ralph, so we put the motor on. Shortly thereafter, it of course picked up...but I didn't want to put the headsail out and the motor off as it would have disturbed Ralph's sleep. Also, if shzt happens and the headsail has to come in, I can't do it alone so would have to wake Ralph. So, sometimes it's better to just leave well enough alone, I've learned. We have been trying to maintain a slower speed as we are going to arrive in Bahia de Caraquez earlier than the high tide needed for entry. If we have to mill about outside the entrance, and it's rolly, it could be even more uncomfortable than out here. We should be there around 4:30 pm Ecuador time.
There has been no current, of more than .5 knt, against us so far. I guess we've been lucky or it's still to come. We are seeing more freighter traffic now, those coming and going through the canal. We had at least 2 days with NOTHING on our radar screen. You start to wonder if it's still working??!!
We hoped to cross the equator during daylight...you know, so we could take a picture of that yellow line (or whatever colour it is). Unfortunately, it looks to be more likely after dark because we have slowed down to accommodate our arrival time. We still have to decide what we are offering Neptune, and Ralph wants to make some goofy crowns or whatever the rituals are. He's saying something about someone going over the side and into the water. I had my shark encounter, it won't be me!!
Right now, it is very lumpy with 20+ knt winds and 6 to 8 foot swells with wind wave on top...suffice to say, I've had a better time. It was relatively calm, for Ralph's sleep shift but, of course, during mine the crappy seas came to visit!

Fortuitous is handling everything very well, only the crew is having second thoughts. It's been a valuable learning experience for us. We've discovered which cupboards don't stay closed, that we need to re-adapt our sea berth, that buying BBQ chickens, and freezing them, ahead of time is a great idea, that zincofax works well for "boat butt/diaper rash" (when I open the jar, memories of diapering Jeff and Greg come wafting back) , and that you need to nap whenever you can as when it's your turn to sleep, you can't count on being able to do so.

Doesn't it look like I'm having a swell time?
Appears to be nothing in the way of waves...photos just don't do it justice!
As of 8 am this morning:
Lat: 00 42 North
Long: 081 11 West
Distance made good: 76 nm
Distance remaining: approx. 85 nm

Enroute to Ecuador, May 20th, 2008

A VERY HAPPY 30TH BIRTHDAY TO OUR SON, GREG!! And, yes, I was only 12 when he was born...that's my story, and I'm sticking with it! How very different were our lives 30 years ago!!
We are still motor sailing, and now have about a one knot current against us. Zephyrus is about 38 nm's behind us as I write this (11 am Ecuador time).
We haven't had any rain for the past 24 hours, but things are sure cooling down. Water temperature has gone from about 29 to 24 Celsius (from close to 90 F, down to 76 or so), and that is effecting the temperature of the air as well. I wore a T-shirt over a beach dress, last night, and used a beach towel to cover my legs. Almost time for a jacket! I know, whine, whine, whine!!
Speaking of wine, we are having a good "drying out", alcohol-wise, as one doesn't really feel much like drinking. And, if we did, we'd both probably fall asleep. Getting enough rest is the hardest part of the journey, so far...that and preparing meals, showering, walking, sitting, amusing ourselves...but I digress!

We still had our "albatross?" with us until about 8am this morning. He left for a short time yesterday, but returned to spend the night. We'll see if he comes back again. I think not as he's been gone for a couple of hours now.

This afternoon, we were visited by yet another bird...a gull of some sort. It was great fun to watch him skate around on the solar panel!

We have been spammed on our boat address...for viagra...just about the farthest thing from MY mind, at least. It is very frustrating to wait for HAM to download that crap!! Seems to be related to sending these messages to the blog. Where are we safe from this??
We should cross the equator tomorrow afternoon, supposing we don't get more current than we already have. We hope to arrive in Bahia de Caraquez Thursday afternoon, all going well.
Lat: 01 50 North
Long: 081 52 West
Distance made good: 111 nm
Distance remaining: 162 nm

Enroute To Ecuador, May 19th,2008

Here we are, past the halfway as far as mileage is concerned... the hours could be quite a different matter! We have had a favourable current, or no current at all so far. That is good news for us "slug-boats"! However, once we hit the Humboldt Current we will be fighting a 2 kt. current, if we are the same as everyone else. We have probably only sailed 7 hours since leaving Costa Rica.
Yesterday kind of runs into the day before, and then into today...all a blur when you're having so much fun! We hit quite a large storm cell, with an amazing amount of rain, but no lightning, thank goodness! It took us about 2+ hours to cross it as we progressed south and it progressed north. It would have been a good wash down for Fortuitous if it weren't for the seas that occasionally broke over the foredeck. We haul in all the cushions and sit on two small ones under the dodger. We still get dripped/rained on, but at least it's warm rain.
Water and air temperatures are dropping as we get closer to the Equator and Ecuador. That does seem strange, but it's the current coming up the coast of South America that brings the cooler temps. Today I took a shower...imagine trying to shower in one of those "tilt-a-whirl rides in a fair ground. I finally accomplished it by sitting on the toilet, rather than standing...I know, too much information here! Also, we had the sail up (motor sailing) and were heeled to port. Of course, the drain is on the starboard side. Ralph headed Fortuitous in the wrong direction to help the water drain out the drain rather than out the door. All the conveniences of home!!
Zephyrus is now more than 25 miles behind us as they can't motor as fast nor plow through the waves the way Fortuitous can. However, looking at needing a high tide arrival, in Bahia Caraquez, we will both probably show up at the same time. We will have to slow down eventually, but the current will probably take care of that for us.

Today we have a large bird (albatross??) resting on our davits. Can't quite remember all of the Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner..so don't remember if they are good luck or bad?? I'm going with the former...don't email me otherwise!!! He has a large brown/grey body and has a blue beak and eyes/eye-lids. His beak is pink where it meets feathers. Actually, he's kinda creepy looking...but he's bringing us good luck!



As of 8 am:
Lat:03 29 North
Long: 082 29 West
Distance made good: 105 nm
Distance remaining: 263 nm

Enroute to Ecuador, Sunday, May 18th, 2008

We are safe and sound and now out of sight of land. Yesterday afternoon, while motor sailing we eventually were too far for radio contact with our buddy boat, Zephyrus. We are faster motoring, and they are faster at sail. We hoped this would balance, but so far (until this afternoon)wind and waves have been on the nose, so eventually we were too far ahead. We slowed down, tried heaving to, and sailed off course for awhile, but they haven't yet been seen on our radar. We eventually chatted by HAM radio, and have decided to forge ahead, at our own speed, and keep in touch by HAM or VHF radio when possible. The sea conditions have made it difficult and uncomfortable if we motor too slowly as steering is compromised...as is the temper of the captain and crew alike!

We are presently about 40 miles from Mal Pelo (Bad Hair) Island, Columbia. We will be staying at least 60 miles off its coast to avoid fishermen, pangas, long-lines, and nets. As well, if we stay west of the island, we are supposed to realize a better line of sail into Bahia de Caraquez, Ecuador, and also put off meeting up early with the strong, opposing Humboldt current, coming up the coast of South America.

Ralph and I each got about 4 hours "sleep" last night...and I use this term loosely! Today, we hit a real squall with tons of rain. Saw it coming on the radar, so had time to batten down the hatches.

Ralph and I both have "boat butt" and are bored and cranky...but we haven't yet killed each other! How come no one ever talks about boat butt??!! It is very uncomfortable and seems to be caused by constantly sitting and swaying/sliding back and forth on your butt.

We had disappointing mileage, yesterday, because of waiting to see if Zephyrus would catch up. They've been sailing today, so may pass us shortly.

As of 8 am this morning, 18/05/08 (24.5 hours)

Lat:05 06 North
Long: 082 53 West
Distance made good: 111 nm
Distance remaining: 371 nm

Enroute to Ecuador, May 17, 2008

Well, excuse me if this blog page isn't as coherent as it could be...the captain hasn't made my coffee yet!! We left Golfito, Costa Rica, at noon May 16th 2008. It is now 7:15am, as I write this and hopefully am able to send it via HAM radio. We have had a very uneventful trip, so far, and that's how we like it! We've seen a few dolphins and flying fish, and one VERY LARGE freighter that came too close!

We encountered a 1 knot current, in our favour, just after leaving Golfito. We have been fortunate enough to have had that most of the night. There has been no wind to speak of, or some on our nose. Fortuitous doesn't like wind up her nose, and refuses to sail in it. We're hoping for some wind to help us along. Now 100 nm from land.

Ralph and I usually have a day watch sched that is very casual...I'll watch, you watch situation. Generally, he ends up doing more than his share. However, I do all the cooking/dishes, so it probably all comes out OK.

Our usual night pattern is Ralph to bed at 9 pm and up at 2 am; me to bed at 2 and up at 7. That is what we did last night, but because it is hot and light at 5, I can't sleep. I can't function on 3+ hours of sleep, so we'll see how it shakes out after a couple of days.

Since we are motoring, Dan and Lorraine, on Zephyrus, are 8+ miles behind us and the gap is widening. If there is wind, they will pass us so we need the head start. We are in contact via radio.

As of 7:30 am 17/05/08 (approximately 19.5 hours)

Lat:06 52 North
Long: 083 03 West
Distance made good: 107 nm
Distance remaining: 479 nm

Leaving Costa Rica, May 16, 2008

We are sitting at anchor outside the Fish Hook Marina in Golfito. We did all our check-out Wednesday, and hoped to leave for Ecuador on Thursday. However, we were all so tired, after fueling up and provisioning, that we decided to wait till today.

As cruisers, we know we aren't supposed to leave for any big trip on a Friday...superstition from ??? (I figure that was made up by some marina owner who wants you to stay tied up for one more day). So, technically, we have already left as we have checked out of the country and have left the dock.

We will pull anchor around 12 noon as, before that, we are running against a strong current in the Gulf. This is quite an adventure and will be the farthest I have been from land. Ralph, having sailed back from Hawaii with my brother Rob, has had offshore experience.

Wish us luck and continue to look on the blog for daily updates...or maybe more if I get really bored!!

Golfito, Costa Rica May 12, 2008

We left Canos and headed for an overnight trip to Golfito. The water was so unbelievably clear! We had a dolphin escort, for awhile. Isn't this an amazing shot!!

Boobies everywhere. They are the most gutsy birds and do not fly away even as Fortuitous passes right beside them. Since leaving Vancouver, and until here, we haven't seen any logs floating in the water. There is a lot of debris, of that sort, in these waters. There is also a lot of plastic.

Storm clouds a brewin'

Sunset on our way to Golfito.

This is an entry from the "Clipper Around the world Yacht Race". There were a few boats here to refuel. They had not been having as much wind as hoped. They are off through the canal, and will continue the race on the other side.

Here we are safely tied to the dock in Fishook Marina. We didn't have a great docking, though. I am the one who throws the lines, while Ralph drives the boat. I ALWAYS recoil the lines myself...except this once. They looked so well done, and I didn't feel as nervous as usual (which is why a usually coil, uncoil, coil, uncoil to keep occupied) Who knew I do it left handed, which is opposite to the way Ralph does it? As I'm ready to throw I notice the problem. Too late to recoil, I throw this awful mess at the line handler, and it barely reaches. Next line, not so lucky!! No time to recoil, try to do a bit while throwing, lose my balance, and throw myself as well. Thankfully, we were a long way from the dock (captain error in cutting in at too much of an angle), so I had plenty of room to splash around and look like a fool!! Thank goodness for wearing shorts and halter top, rather than the dress I'd considered earlier! What an entry!! Luckily, some big strong Costa Rican (whose face I, strangely enough, don't recall) pulled me out.

At the end of our dock was Astor, a huge wooden schooner built about 84 years ago. Ralph loved the woodwork.

This is Paula on Astor's stern.

This is what Astor looks like from the bay.

Byron and Paula, crew for Astor, were kind enough to invite us aboard for a tour and some nibblies. They are hoping to soon own their own boat and get out there and do what we do! Of course, it will be a little different on one of our little rigs!

Isla Canos May 11, 2008

After San Lucas, we had several other stops, but none of them of much interest for the blog. However, Drakes Bay put on a lightning show like we've never seen in our lives. As Dan said, it was like a war zone. It was a night and the strikes were all around us, but not in the bay itself, thank God! The entire bay would light up with some of the lightning. You really wouldn't want to be out in that!!!
From Drakes Bay, we headed out to Isla Canos (pronounced Canyos) as it was reported to be fabulous snorkelling, with the only coral bank in Central America. This is the view of where we day anchored to snorkel. It isn't great holding, so they don't recommend you anchor overnight. Canos is also noted for having the most lightning strikes per year in Central America. Another reason not to stay long!

This is a view of the rocks where we went snorkelling and, yes, my first impression was like yours! "I don't think so!!" However, I lost the vote and off we all went. It was the best snorkelling we've ever done. The water was very clear and we could see at least 30 feet down. This was my first sighting of a shark, and I hope it was my last!!! In the aquarium is one thing, along-side of you is a whole other "kettle of fish"!

Ralph, of course, went ashore after snorkelling. The rest of us were too exhausted.

He said it was a great jungle walk but, as usual, the view point was much farther than he thought and he ended up crossing the entire island. And, he WONDERS why I don't like hiking with him!!

Very tropical, as you can see.

The view on the other side.

Islas Muertos & San Lucas, May 6 2008

We anchored here, in Muertos, but didn't go ashore. It was incredibly shallow in the entire bay. It was a bit hairy coming in, and only slightly less going out! Thank God for the chart plotter. We can follow our route back out. If we got in OK, we assume we'll be able to do the reverse! We didn't go ashore as it was a very muddy, litter-strewn beach. I do love this boat shot, though!

From Muertos, we headed to Isla San Lucas. It used to be a penal colony, but now is abandoned. Ralph went off for a little hike to see what was there.

There were many old structures still remaining. It was in interesting walk.

I guess the criminals were religious??

A great piece of driftwood.

Along Ralph's hike, he found this beautiful tree.

The real reason we came to this bay was that we were told there was a great seafood restaurant/fish farm. Here I'm trying to pick out my dinner fish as he is being fed HIS dinner! I actually just couldn't choose, as they all looked alike. So, I had shrimp!

It was a very interesting venue, but I have to say I've had better meals! We brought along our trusty Chateau de Carton, and they supplied the glasses. Zephyrus Dan doesn't like fish, and Lorraine is a veggie, so they didn't join us.

Pelicans were everywhere trying to figure out how to get into the pens for some snacks. Most of the fish stayed pretty deep in the water, but we did see the odd one make a fatal error!

Islas Jesusita & Cedros, And Puntarenas, May 3, 2008

This was an interesting anchorage. We anchored in the pass between Islas Jesusita (Little Jesus) & Cedros. There were a few tropical "oasis-like" spots on the islands.

Fishermen, like this one, came in regularly and anchored or tied to a mooring behind us. These boats are just so colourful and interesting. I can hardly wait to get my paints out!

At the ferry terminal, for Puntarenas, we went into the small town, a $7 cab ride each way. Boy, did they see us coming!! Puntarenas, itself, is a ferry ride away. Zephyrus and we took turns going into town as we'd heard there was a lot of theft where we were anchored. Even one of the fishermen came and told us to be very cautious there! Punta Arenas had not much redeeming about it, except the view from the ferry.

Again, very colourful boats!

I'd hate to be the guy in the middle!! "Sorry, but could you guys let me out, I want to fish today?"

Isla Tortugas, Costa Rica May 2, 2008

Meet Ziggy, Nakia's boat cat! In Isla Tortugas we caught up with Nakia (John and Linda), who were one of our buddy-boats through the Tehuantepec (when we had the tranny cooler problems).

After a great day of snorkelling there, we had a dinghy raft-up with appies and drinks.

It was great for us all to get together again!